Shock Definition

RF1-50+130: (7r-2c) This is a great all-around shock, it makes rebound and drive both, this is something that is hard to do in a shock and this shock works real for all conditions. This is a 7-rebound shock that has a low zero point which means it will make rebound and hold grip in the tire but needs some lateral force to make it work. This is a good shock for 3/8 size tracks but may allow for the car to push on late corner exit or when it is really heavy it may want to push the nose. All in all, this is a great shock.

RF1-75+130: (8r-2c) This is a good RF that will turn the car in both slick and tacky conditions, it is an 8-rebound shock that has about 100 lbs. at zero. Zero holds the car in posture longer allowing the drive to respond, it also will kill drive as it gets bigger. This is a good place to be, so if you are lacking drive with this shock add bite to the car.

RF1-100+130: (9r-2c) This is s shock with more rebound in it and a bigger zero number, it holds the car in position longer and allows for more off gas time in the slick. This is a 9-rebound shock with 125 to 150 at zero, this shock will hold the car on the nose much longer than the other two shocks like it. This shock will kill some drive in the car because it holds the nose down more, so you may need to run more drive in the car when running this shock, this shock is better when keeping up your speed through the corners. This shock is also good in the tacky when you need the car to turn, and it can become tight on the gas.

RFGF 200-800: (11-16r-2c) This shock is a different way of building rebound to the right front and is still in the family of low-speed rebound. This shock is built on the bases of very little bleed and with different preloads on the stack. We build this from a 200 Zero to an 800, and as the number gets bigger the zero-point increases, causing the rebound to have more and more holding force. This allows the car to turn better and carry more speed in the corners. (PT@200lbs 13-17 sec)

RFGF2-500-800: (17-20r-2c): This shock is the next step in rebound with bleed and ranges from 500 to 1000 in zero point. It shares builds from a standard RFGF shock but use a reduce flow piston. This allows and increase in zero and over all pressure making more rebound in the shock. This shock still maintains the same bleed as a standard RFGF and will show similarities in speed from 0-1” per second. (Pull time 20 sec +)

RFNB: (Before 2022) Was based off the RFGF-500 but with no bleed and add overall rebound and pull time to shock. This is still a good shock to run on a car that don’t turn well or is heavier in spring rate. This shock will work with or without a bump stop. (PT in unknow but would be in the over 30 sec range.)

RFNB: (After 2022) This is based on a reduce flow piston and a bidirectional plate which closes the so-called shared bleed circuit in a standard piston. This shock in a NO-BLEED build changes the zero and 10” numbers in shock which can cause some handling issues as the track changes. In a low build or 10” numbers under 1000 lbs it works best on a smooth track or asphalt; on dirt we need to get the 10” numbers up in the 1500 lbs range. This shock will work well on a donut style bump and will pull car down into the bump range allow it to build load to tire. (PT will be in th 3 min range)

 

 

LF-Black: (2-3) This is a good open motor LF allows weight transfer to the RR in the tacky and is best chained up at ride height in the slick. By chaining the car, it will make more load on the RR tire on exit. We like to allow transfer to the RR on an open motor car because guys like to feel the RR dig into the track, it would be better to tie down the LF more and induce more speed through the corner but that doesn’t fit most guys driving style.

LF1-40: (5-3) This is a good tie down shock for a crate motor car like an IMCA car. It is also good for an open motor guy that can run momentum, it has some tie down but a small zero point, so it will come off the nose but just not as fast as a stand LF shock will. This would be good in the tacky to help the car turn and run it with a chain on the LF in the slick. Keep adding rebound to the LF will make the car turn better in and off the corner.

LF1-50: (6-3) This is a good shock for the left front of a car that needs to turn, it is not a ton more rebound than a LF1-40 but is a good choice when looking at a starting point.

LF1-75: (7-3) This is more rebound than the two shocks above and is the big brother to them. When advancing your program, you will need more rebound, and this is it. Helps turn the car as speed increase, good for A-Mods, B-Mods, and Street Stock style cars that are using smaller motor program.

 

LF1-100: (10-3) This is a real good left front that will turn a car good in conjunction to the RF shocks, it is used widely in a Street Stock but can be used in other class. When the speed increase than the cars will need to be turned harder and this is a good shock for that.

RR Crate: (3-4) This is a standard bleed shock with a little compression in it to help it load the RR tire on entry but not overload it. This shock works best with a bigger spring in the RR like a 250 or bigger and runs good in a crate car like a 406 mod, car. This will run with 100 psi or 125 psi if rough

RR-N: (5-1.5) This is a good standard RR for us, when most people are running some kind of 4-4 on the RR we are adding tie down to keep the car turning better. This is more of an open motor type shock but often seen on a crate car, better when ran with a 175-225 spring rate on the RR. This is a rebound shock with standard bleed system in it which runs good on a little rougher track and doesn’t have a bunch of tie down in it.

RR-N/200: (5-4) This has become popular in the past 6 months and adding compression to the right rear has given the car more load on 1st turn in under gas. This is a great crate option along with adding spring rate to the car and I think it is going to become even more in demand when we add the SRT option to this shock.

RR1-40:(6-2) This is a 6 rebound RR, this slows down the car in building RR bar angle and allows for more exit side bite in the car. Side bite on exit would not be needed if the car had no lateral loads on it, but because it does, we need to control it. It is best to control the height of the car in rebound and not birdcage bind or J-Bar angle. Runs good with a 175-225 spring.

RR1-50: (7-2) When we start adding rebound to the RR we are trying slow the car down as it is try to climb the RR bar, we are not using it to build load but to maintain it over time. As the track slicks off add rebound will help the car get off the corner better.

LR1-40-350: (2-7) Zero 50) This shock has good low speed to help hold the car up when entering the corner, the 40 is the low speed at one inch of travel on the dyno, we can raise this number to add more car control but as we do this it will decrease the tire’s ability to make drive in the slick. As the track get slicker than it would be best to look at a BV shock for the LR while maintaining it in the front position.

LR1-40-400: (2-8) Zero 75

LR1-50-350: (2-7) Zero 100) Has more low speed in which makes it stiffer as the car starts to set down.

LR1-50-400: (2-8) Zero 100)

LR1-60-400: (2-8) Zero 120) Used a lot on UMP mods when fast tacky racetracks are.

LR1-50-550: (2-10) Zero 150)

LR1-75-550: (2-10) Zero 200) This is a real stiff LR and is used for classes like NeSmith Street Stocks to hold the car in posture on corner entry.

LRNB: This shock is built on a bidirectional plate and has no bleed; it will hold the car in posture but will hurt over traction when slick.

 

Having a real stiff LR is not helping the car it is helping the driver to make up for what he is doing in the car. Some time we need this shock pretty bad, and it will help the overall performance of the car, but we could be better with a different technique or driving style. Now that was easier said than done, so don’t feel bad if you need a stiff left rear in the car. But remember that by improving your car control and braking on entry you will increase your speed on the racetrack and your finishing position at the pay window. It will take some time for this to happen, and you will need to work hard at it so don’t give up it is important to your career. The standard left rear shock LR1-40-350 with 150 psi in it should hold the car up while you are braking entering the corner, sometimes track size and shape will dictate what needs to happen but we need to keep it to am min. to improve traction on the tire. Other options we can run to help overcome a stiff left rear shock, is a base valve option which will allow us to increase the left rear compression a ton without increase the gas pressure in that shock. If you are going to use a BV on the left rear it needs to work well and have good oil in it, I feel like this is where our design in the BV is outperforming every other one on the market currently. Also make sure that shock has good oil in it or it will start leaking due to cavitation in the shock.

 

 

Other option we build for special needs:

SRT: Slick rough track piston, has been showing up in more of our shocks and the results are good, we will be doing more of this in 2019 than we have ever done, the results are good. The SRT was 1st developed for a B-Mod left rear because they had no chain limiter on those cars at the time and was using the shock to hold the car up and limit travel. This made it very hard to make traction on the left rear while going through holes, the stiff left rear would upset the car pull traction of the other corners. The SRT allows oil to flow through the bypass ports in the piston when the car hits something on the track allowing the tires to stay in contact with the track, this increases the traction in the car. We have seen that running SRT on the other 3 corners has allowed for more traction in all condition both slick and rough.

Base Valve: Base valve is designed to handle more track conditions allowing you to use it every night you race. A base valve is a fixed piston in the end of the shock body (compression side) that allow the oil in the compression stroke to have something other than the divider piston to push against. When done right the base valve will make the shock perform to its highest level which will allow more traction and feel in the car. A base valve gas shock is the best combo out there right now to race on in a dirt car, it is just overlooked or misunderstood and or is just done wrong in some cases. This along with an SRT piston we feel will allow the most feel (performance) available in a dirt car today.

Bypass LR shock: Great for making traction up off the corner when track is rough and slick this works well. The LR bypass can be done in one of two ways, we can make bypass in the tube by cutting grooves that allow the oil to bypass the piston or we can do a 2512 shock and do it in the inner tube. When cutting grooves in the tube it is very hard to have uniform depths from one to the next. This works and works well but is hard to repeat or impossible to repeat to a tee. The 2512 shock will create more zero force in the main shock body or travel range than cutting the tube will, so it may have a stronger holding force.

Air Shock: It has 2 zones; oil and air and both carry the car well. Allows the car to have better height control through the corner while maintaining steer in the rear axle, allowing car to come back to traction sooner.

IBP: (Internal bypass) We have been on and off with this for the past 10 years, devolved early in our build stage we have redesigned it to function in a different fashion. Internal Bypass (TT3) has many different meanings but the one we like is grip, we see the SRT piston doing a lot of the same things and that is why we are so pumped about it. IBP is different on the LR than the RF as far as how they are built, and even though this is a good shock it is not the fix all to all 4 corners. We need to fully understand our cars and the position they take on the racetrack to determine all that we can do with this shock. Right now, it is outstanding in giving the car all the turn it needs while allowing drive to the rear tires.

 

TP: (Pull Time) This is something new we have been doing, it is a test of load over distinct that is measured in time. We are at 200lbs of load on the shock over a 2-inch travel and we time how long it takes to get there. You would be surprised at what will happen sometimes and if it happens to your shock, it would never be detected by the shock dyno. If you see this call out Pt 17.5 @ 50psi that is a 17.5 second run at 50 psi or 200 lbs.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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